Fabric Design and Analysis
Fabric Design and Analysis
Introduction
Classification of Fabric Structure:
Ø Woven Fabric
Ø Knitted Fabric
Ø Non Woven Fabric.
General Concept about Woven Fabric:
v Woven fabric is produced by interlacing two sets of yarns, the warp and the weft, which are at the right angle to each other in the plane of the fabric.
v The warp is oriented in the direction of the length of the fabric and the weft in that of its width.
v Individual warp and weft yarns are called “Ends” and “Picks” respectively.
v Interlacing of the ends and picks with each other produces a coherent structure.
v The repeating pattern of interlacing is called the “Weave”.
Classification of Woven Fabric:
Considering the woven structure, the woven fabric may be conveniently divided into two principle categories:
Ø Simple Structure
Ø Compound Structure
Features of Simple Structure:
v The ends and picks are interlaced with one another at right angle.
v In the fabric, threads of each group are respectively parallel to each other.
v Only one series of ends and one series of picks are used in this construction.
v All the constituent threads are equally responsible for both the aspect of utility or performance in a fabric and the aspect of aesthetic appeal.
Features of Compound Structure:
v More than one series of ends and picks are used in this structure.
v Some of the threads may be responsible for the body of the fabric, such as
ground yarns, whilst some may be employed entirely for ornamental purposes
such as “Figuring” or “Face” yarns.
v In this structure, some threads may be found not to be parallel formation one to
another in either plane and indeed there are many pile surface construction in
which some threads may project out at right angles to the general plane of the
fabric. E.g.: Pile, Towel etc.
Method of Fabric Representation:
The method of indicating the weave on design paper is as follows:
v The spaces between the lines represent the yarns
v The ends are vertical and the picks are horizontal
v Each square represents the crossing of an end and a pick.
v There are two and only two possible of each crossing, either the end passes over the pick or the pick passes over the end.
v A mark in a particular square indicates that the end is over the pick at the corresponding place in the fabric
v A blank square indicates that the pick is over the end.
v Only one repeat should be shown on Design Paper.
Some Important Terms or Factors:
Formula Number: Any structure or interlacement represented as a small fraction is known as Formula Number. It is the short hand system representing the weaving of a warp or a weft
yarn. E.g.: 
Repeat Number or Repeat Size: It indicates the number of warp and weft yarns in the repeat.
Contact Field: These are the contact points between warp and weft crossing at right angle. The number of contact field is always equal to the product of the number of ends and picks.
Contact Field = RNWA × RNWE
Where, RNWA = Repeat no. of warp, and RNWE = Repeat no. of weft.
Interlacing Field: These are the points where a yarn of one system of threads changes its position in relation to the other system.
Interlacing field may be of two types:
Ø Single Interlacing Field
Ø Double Interlacing Field
Single Interlacing Field: Here the yarn bends from the top of the fabric to the bottom and covers two or more yarn. It is found in Twill weave. After interlacing with one warp (or weft), the yarn does not interlace with adjacent warp (or weft).
Double Interlacing Field: Here the yarn bends and covers a yarn, bends again and reappears at the same fabric side. It is found in Plain weave. After interlacing the warp (or weft), the yarn interlaces with adjacent warp (or weft).
Free Field: These are the zones where warp and weft yarns do not touch and do not change fabric side. Because of Free field, floats are formed and the yarns in the weave may shift.
Open Field: These are the zones where neither warp nor weft thread is present. The number of open field is important for air and water permeability.
Interlacing Ratio: The interlacing ratio of a fabric is the ratio between the actual number of interlacing fields and the maximum number of interlacing fields.
Interlacing Ratio =
Degree of Interlacing: Degree of Interlacing is the Interlacing Ratio expressed in percentage.
Degree of Interlacing = Interlacing Ratio × 100%
Satin weave:
Satin weave:
Satin weave is the third basic weave among all of the basic weave or design. It is not as used as plain or twill weave. It is used for special purpose. Generally lace is produced by this satin weave. If a fabric is formed with a satin weave using filament fibers such as silk, nylon, or polyester.
Properties of satin weave:
The main characteristics of satin weave are given below. They are:
1. The main characteristic of satin weave is that; the face side of the fabric is very smooth and glossy.
2. Only one emplacement is happened between each warp and each weft, for this reason, it is very glossy.
3. In satin weave, no twill direction is formed on the fabric surface.
4. Satin weave is comparatively looser structure than plain and twill weave.
5. Satin weave is mostly used for lace production.
Types of satin weave:
Satin weaves are two types. They are:
1. Warp satin
a. Regular warp satin
b. Irregular warp satin
2. Weft satin
a. Regular weft satin
b. Irregular weft satin
1. Warp satin: If the float of warp yarn is more in the face side then it is called warp satin. i.e. 5/1 warp satin.
2. Weft satin: If the float of weft yarn is more in the face side then it is called weft satin. i.e. 1/5 weft satin
Uses:
Satin is commonly used in apparel: satin baseball jackets, athletic shorts, women's lingerie, nightgowns, blouses and evening gowns, but also in some men's boxer shorts, shirts and neckties. Other uses include interior furnishing fabrics, upholstery, and bed sheets.
